My Stylist Ryan

Experience Life With Color!

With incredible experience and unmatched customer satisfaction, Ryan Goodman has distinguished himself as the Treasure Valley's premiere hair stylist. Located at Looks Unlmited in Boise, Idaho. Contact Ryan Goodman and book your next hair cut, style, or color today! 

Dry Scalp Vs. Dandruff: What Is The Difference?

OVERVIEW: If you have a dry, flaking scalp, you may suspect dandruff. But it could be a sign of dry scalp. Dandruff and dry scalp have the same main symptoms, which are falling flakes and an itchy scalp, but they are two different conditions. 

 

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Dry Scalp: 

  1. Smaller, Dry Flakes
  2. Itchy Scalp
  3. Dry skin on other parts of the body

You get dry scalp when your skin has too little moisture. The skin on your scalp becomes irritated and flakes off. If your scalp is dry, the skin on other parts of your body, like your arms and legs, could be dry, too. 

Dry scalp can also be triggered by factors like these:

  1. old, dry air
  2. Contact dermatitus caused by a reaction to products you apply to your scalp, like Shampoo, Styling Gel, and Hairspray 
  3. Older age

    I would suggest using Tea Tree Special Shampoo+Conditioner. This will help put some moisture back into your hair.
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Dandruff

  1. Oily, Large flakes that are yellow or white
  2. Itchy Scalp
  3. Oily, Red, Scaly skin
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The main cause of dandruff is seborrheic dermatitis, a condition that turns the skin oily, red, and scaly. The white or yellow scales flake off, creating dandruff. You can get seborrheic dermatitis anywhere you have oil glands, including your eyebrows, groin, armpits, and along the sides of your nose. In babies it’s called cradle cap.

Often, a fungus called malassezia triggers dandruff. This fungus normally lives on your scalp. Yet some people have too much of it, and it causes skin cells to multiply more quickly than usual. 

Certain factors can cause malassezia to multiply, including:

  1. Age
  2. Hormones
  3. Stress
     

Try Kenra Dandruff Shampoo, which can also be used for dry scalp if it is a mild case. 

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Grow Your Hair

The secret to strong, shiny strands is all about your diet. Eating a variety of healthy foods will give you the mane you've always dreamed of. Here are some nutrients that will help.

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  1. Iron and zinc: Help hair follicles to grow, Eat lean red meat, which is rich in both nutrients, twice a week. Pair nonmeat sources, such as soybeans or lentils, with a vitamin C-rich food like an orange to boost iron absorption.
  2. Vitamin D: Several studies have found that vitamin D may help activate hair growth. However, D is a tricky vitamin. Few foods contain it naturally, and although sitting in the sun for a few minutes a day can help your body produce more of it, many experts advise against it due to the increased exposure to harmful UV rays. Your best bet? Take a 1,000 IU supplement daily.
  3. Protein: Women should get at least 46 grams a day (3 ounces of chicken has about 23).
  4. Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Eat fatty fish (like salmon) twice a week for hydrated hair, or take up to 1 gram a day of a DHA and EPA supplement. 
  5. Biotin: Eggs are rich in this B vitamin essential for growth. (They're also an excellent source of protein, choline, and vitamin D.) You can also take biotin suppliments. 

Cap Highlights Vs. Foil Highlights

Highlights are strands of lighter colours in your hair and/or lowlights are strands of darker colours in your hair. These can be done in several different ways but the two main methods are done using foils to separate the hair being coloured from the rest of the hair or using a plastic cap or bag to separate the hair. Both methods have their pro's and con's but what is the difference?

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Cap Highlights. 

 A cap highlight allows the colorist to watch the color as it lifts in your hair. Caps also allow you to apply color through the entire length of your hair, using the same strength developer, at one application.

Pros:

  • Can be cheaper
  • Quick

Cons: 

  • Only suitable for short hair as the process can put unnecessary stress on mid to longer hair.
  • Can be painful as a hook is used to pull strands of hair through the cap.
  • Only one color can be used. 
  • Not suitable for curly hair as it tangles while pulling through cap. 
  • Can't get all the way to scalp when hair is very thick.
  • Hard to get Highlights near the nape of your head as well as close to your scalp. 
  • Hard to control Highlight placement to get them where you want.
  • Looks like zebra stripes if not done right. 
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Foil Highlights.

 A foil highlight allows you to target just the roots or ends of your hair. It also allows creative coloring without the colors overlapping each other.

Pros: 

  • Doesnt Hurt.
  • Can use more than one color. 
  • Can get closer to your scalp and hairline.
  • You get color exactly where you want it. 
  • Can create different sizes of light mor easily (either chunky or more natural weaves) 
  • Does not stress hair with pulling through tiny holes like the cap. 
  • Technique can be used with all kinds of hair. 

Cons:

  • Takes longer.
  • Can be more expensive.
  • If your stylist doesn't know what they are doing, it can be a shock if not done right. 

 

What Is a Brazilian Blowout?

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What is a Brazilian Blowout? 

     My clients ask me this all the time! A Brazilian Blowout is a smoothing treatment that can be customized to keep your curl and lose frizz, or to get a sleek and straight result.

     The best candidates for the Brazilian Blowout is someone with frizzy, damaged, or any kind of processed hair. You can get the treatment done no matter what kind of hair texture you have (fine, course, frizzy, or curly), as well as hair that has been permed, Japanese straightened, or even if you have extensions. 

     The Brazilian Blowout will be left TOTALLY frizz-free, shiny, and manageable with tons of body and bounce. You can still have the option to wear your hair curly/wavy depending on your hair type. Even if you have highlights and/or color the Brazilian Blowout will help enhance your color by sealing the cuticle and conditioning your hair.

So the question is... Will it make my hair straight?
     Well if your hair is wavy, it will make your hair appear naturally straight and healthy. If it is very curly, it will minimize frizz while enhancing the appearance of the natural wave/curl. If your hair is straight, it will get rid of all frizz and create radiant shine.

How long will it last?
    It will last for 10-12 Weeks if you use the Acai After-Care Maintenance product line. If you choose to use products that are not recommended after getting a Brazilian Blowout, you will not see it last as long. Pantene, Suave, Aussie, Etc. are products that will strip your Brazilian blowout fast. Please make sure you ask about the Acai After-Care while doing your treatment.


You can receive a Brazilian Blowout after a Color Service, however, you cannot receive a Color Service if you do the Brazilian Blowout first, You will have to wait 2 weeks after your treatment to be able to color your hair.


So what's the cost?
The cost of this amazing treatment starts at $250.00 and can go up depending on your length and thickness. Request a consultation for more information for your very own treatment!

What's the difference between Permanent, Semi/Demi, Temporary, and Alternative Colors?

There are many types of color applications you can choose from when you go to a salon, Here they are:

PERMANENT COLOUR
Permanent hair color generally contains ammonia and must be mixed with a developer or oxidizing agent in order to permanently change hair color. Ammonia, in permanent hair color is used to open the cuticle layer so that the developer and color molecules together penetrate into the cortex. The developer or oxidizing agent, comes in various volumes. The higher the developer volume, the higher the lift will be of a person's natural hair pigment. Someone with dark hair wishing to achieve two or three shades lighter may need a higher developer, whereas someone with lighter hair wishing to achieve darker hair will not need a high developer. Timing may vary with permanent hair coloring but is typically 30 minutes or 45 minutes for those wishing to achieve maximum gray coverage.
 

  1. Permanent colors changes hair structure to make colors change
  2. Will cover grey completely
  3. Provides Full hair color coverage
  4. Lasts up to 8 week
     

DEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR

Demi-permanents have several advantages as compared with permanent color. Because there is essentially no lifting (i.e., removal) of natural hair color, the final color is less uniform/homogeneous than a permanent and therefore more natural looking; they are gentler on hair and therefore safer, especially for damaged hair; and they wash out over time (typically 20 to 28 shampoos), so root regrowth is less noticeable and if a change of color is desired, it is easier to achieve. Demi-permanent hair colors are not permanent but the darker shades in particular may persist longer.

SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR

The final color of each strand of hair will depend on its original color and porosity, so there will be subtle variations in shade across the whole head. This gives a more natural result than the solid, all over color of a permanent color. However, it also means that gray or white hairs will not appear as the same shade as the rest of the hair. If there are only a few grey/white hairs, the effect will usually be enough for them to blend in, but as the gray spreads, there will come a point where it will not be disguised as well. In this case, the move to permanent color can sometimes be delayed by using the semi-permanent as a base and adding highlights. Semi-permanent color cannot lighten the hair.
 

  1. Can be used as a hair gloss to create shine
  2. Clear can be used to add shine
  3. Lasts up to 8 shampoos

 

TEMPORARY COLOUR 

The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and cannot penetrate the cuticle layer. The color particles remain adsorbed (closely adherent) to the hair shaft and are easily removed with a single shampooing. Temporary hair color can persist on hair that is excessively dry or damaged in a way that allows for migration of the pigment to the interior of the hair shaft.

 

ALTERNATIVE COLOUR 

The chemical formulae of alternative color dyes typically contain only tint and have no developer. This means that they will only create the bright color of the packet if they are applied to light blond hair. People with darker hair (medium brown to black) need to use a bleaching kit before tint application. Some people with fair hair may benefit from prior bleaching as well. Gold, yellow and orange undertones in hair that has not been lightened enough can adversely affect results, especially with pinks, blues and greens. Although some alternative colors are semi-permanent, such as blue and purple, it could take several months to fully wash the color from bleached or pre-lightened hair.

 Alternative Color

Alternative Color

 When you come into the salon, be sure to ask your stylist about the different types of colors you may choose to do!

 

Some of this text was not written by myself! Here are the links to my sources:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hair_coloring

https://www.madison-reed.com/blog/semi-and-permanent-color

BOX COLOR: NOT EVEN ONCE!

 

 

Here's an experiment I did a week ago, showing you that box color doesn't always do what it says it will do. Since box color is a universal product it says it will work for everyone, but what it doesn't state is that everyone has different outcomes because everyone's hair is different. I do understand that some clients have gotten the exact same outcome of the lady on the box, but how did your hair feel afterwords?  I bet 8 times out of 10 your hair felt like straw or hay, especially after using the blonde.

SO PLEASE!

Just do yourself a favor and stay away from the box color. Come to me and let me do what I am here to do for you. 

How much should I tip my Stylist?

 So, What is your hairstylist worth?

So, What is your hairstylist worth?

I get this question as a hairstylist everyday and honestly, I believe you should tip your hairstylist what you believe that they are worth (No sugar coating the truth).

I don't worry about what my clients tip me. I care about these 3 things: 

  1. Is MY client happy with the service they requested?
  2. Does MY client feel like a million bucks walking out of the salon?
  3. Did MY client Pre-Book to come see me again in 6-8 weeks?


 I started doing hair because I love making people feel great about themselves, not because of the money. To me, It's a great feeling knowing that I made someone feel wonderful about themselves with a haircut/color. Focusing on customer service is also another big thing.
When my client is in my chair, I love to make them feel welcome, rather that be talking about the stresses going on in life, giving advice, etc... Just simply being that person who "Listens" to their client is, in my eyes, the best customer service a person could ever encounter. 

So while deciding to leave a tip next time your in the salon, Think of these 3 questions:

  1. Did my stylist do what I requested?
  2. Did my stylist listen to me?
  3. How did my stylist treat me during the service? 

When you have all your answers, THEN you choose what you believe is a good tip. 

What is Olaplex?

What is Olaplex?

    Olaplex is a bond multiplier containing a single active ingredient, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate. Olaplex works by finding single sulfur hydrogen bonds and cross linking them back together to form disulfide bonds before, during and after services. Disulfide bonds are broken via chemical, thermal, and mechanical processes.

Olaplex is free of silicone, sulfates, phthalates, DEA, aldehydes, and is against animal testing.
(Source: http://help.olaplex.com/hc/en-us/articles/205570248-What-Is-Olaplex-)

From the box:
Olaplex is not a magic wand. You can push the envelope and process further and lift higher, but you cannot take dark and damaged hair and make it platinum blonde and healthy-looking in 90 minutes.

In my eyes, Olaplex is a magical product! If your hair is compromised, it can be used as a "reset" button for your hair and by doing so allows you to rebuild the strength, structure, and integrity to the point where a color service would then be feasible once again on your hair.

 Next time you go into the salon, ask your stylist to use olaplex before your service or with your color formula.

Next time you go into the salon, ask your stylist to use olaplex before your service or with your color formula.

Olaplex can also be used as a deep conditioning treatment. It smooths and seals the cuticle, which will greatly help the strength and integrity of the hair internally before the external layer is addressed.


What is the Olaplex NO.3 Hair Profector?
Number 1 and 2 are used at the salon, whereas number 3 is a take home product for the client. It has the same active ingredient as both the No. 1 and No. 2. It enables you to maintain strong, healthy in between services as it continues to link bonds within your hair.

What is Hair Toner?

Let's have a talk about blondes shall we? Have you seen people walking around with zebra stripes or maybe uneven tones in their highlights or overall color? This is simply because the stylist did not do one simple step... Which is applying toner.

What is toner and why do I need it?

A toner is a color that cancels out and corrects unwanted tones in your hair such as - brassy yellow, gold, orange, red, and ash tones. When you get highlights/bleach application, lightener can only lift up to a certain amount of levels. When you rinse out your foils, most likely you are left with a yellow tone. NO ONE is going to want to leave the salon with brassy yellow hair, am I right ladies? So this is why toning is a crutial step in a color service.

There are many kinds of blondes people ask for when getting highlights. Throwing lightener on the hair is going to lift the color, but not tone. Say you wanted to have a platinum tone for your blonde, and when your stylist took your foils out they looked pale yellow. A stylist would then simply put on a toner with a violet base on it to achieve that platinum goal. 

Always ask for a toner when dealing with any kind of highlight service or when using lightener. I promise you will see a huge difference in your hair color that I bet you haven't seen before. Here's a photo of what I'm talking about

 On the left: her hair was a brassy yellow tone when she came in. On the right: I did a bleach retouch and then when rinsing out her hair it was still a brassy yellow tone.    I then mixed up a toner with a violet base to help cancel out the yellow, and the results turned out wonderful. What a beautiful blonde everyone is looking for these days.

On the left: her hair was a brassy yellow tone when she came in.
On the right: I did a bleach retouch and then when rinsing out her hair it was still a brassy yellow tone.  I then mixed up a toner with a violet base to help cancel out the yellow, and the results turned out wonderful. What a beautiful blonde everyone is looking for these days.

Have you heard of Violet Shampoo's?
My clients use this type of shampoo to make sure their blonde does not go yellow. Purple cancels out yellow which makes your tone that beautiful platinum color.  Please be aware that if your Hair is gold, a purple shampoo is not going to do as much to the tone, but if your hair is pale yellow, a purple shampoo is going to be just what your looking for.

 There are different types of violet/purple shampoos, but these three would be my favorite.

There are different types of violet/purple shampoos, but these three would be my favorite.

What is a color correction, and why does it cost so much?

In the hair industry, there are many different kinds of color corrections, here are just two of them.

The first type of color correction is making your dark hair color much lighter.

Have you ever gone to the salon and asked to go blonde after you've colored your hair with box color more than 4 times? It is not as easy as it sounds. Your hair would need to be "color cleansed" more than once, and then after you get the desired level, we would need to put on another color for the desired tone.

The second would be making lighter hair darker.

If you have very light hair and your wanting to go darker, We would need to fill your hair since the blonde has no pigment, and then put the desired tone on top. Have you ever put a dark color on your hair and then a few days later you wash it and it falls right out? Its because your hair doesn't have any warm pigments to hold onto that darker color.

Some color corrections are much easier than others and may take a whole day or several weeks to accomplish. Typically a color correction can be very costly, time consuming, and can be very damaging to your hair.  

So why are you paying $100.00 an hour for a color correction? 

When doing a color correction, I am using ounces and ounces of color to get you to the look you want. I find that most people want to go from a dark color to a light color. This takes some time and most people think its just throwing bleach on your hair and calling it good. Well, its not.  When applying bleach to your hair, it produces pigments that are distributed throughout your hair follicle. Have you noticed that your hair has to pass colors such as red, orange, yellow, and then pale yellow? Not leaving the bleach on long enough can cause unwanted tones. Not to mention, having to tone with the right colors to get rid of brassy tones, green tones, red tones, etc. is a huge step in the color correction.

So before you decide to take matters into your own hands, you might make things even worse.  Let me help you get to your desired look the right way. Take a look at these photos of one my clients after she tried lightening her hair herself. 

 This is a Color Correction i have done. My client put a color extracting product on her hair and then put on bleach. You can see that her roots turned yellow, her mid shaft turned brown, and her ends turned yellow. The reason her roots turned yellow is simply because she had no color on it. The mid-shaft had color on it which made it harder for it to pull out. This photo was the first time she came in to get it fixed. I had to bleach her out and then tone her. She has been coming back to get closer to her desired tone which is silver.

This is a Color Correction i have done. My client put a color extracting product on her hair and then put on bleach. You can see that her roots turned yellow, her mid shaft turned brown, and her ends turned yellow. The reason her roots turned yellow is simply because she had no color on it. The mid-shaft had color on it which made it harder for it to pull out. This photo was the first time she came in to get it fixed. I had to bleach her out and then tone her. She has been coming back to get closer to her desired tone which is silver.

 After 4 1/2 months, we finally got her to a silver tone! It took some time, But her hair thanks her for it. 

After 4 1/2 months, we finally got her to a silver tone! It took some time, But her hair thanks her for it. 

Why Does My Hair Get Greasy?

Your hair gets greasy for the same reason your face gets oily: glands in the skin produce an oily substance called sebum. Sebum is what moistens hair and keeps it from drying out.

The glands that produce sebum (called sebaceous glands) are located next to hair roots in the layer of skin called the dermis. Channels from the sebaceous glands lead to the hair follicle — that's how sebum gets out of the skin and onto your scalp. Take a look:
 

So how can you help your hair from getting greasy? 

  • try products containing "Tea Tree Oils" which has a drying effect.
  • Avoid touching or brushing your hair as much as possible.
  • Find a quick fix (Such as Dry Shampoo).
  • Blow-dry your hair off your forehead.
  • Do not straighten your hair regularly. The heat from the straightener makes your hair produce grease.
  • Wash your hair frequently, but not everyday.
  • Be careful with conditioners, Only apply your conditioner mid-shaft to ends.
  • Shampoo twice (First shampoo gets the surface dirt off your hair. Second shampoo deep cleans).
  • Rinse your hair with warm water, and close the cuticle with cold water to add shine.